Today, getting a product out quickly is pivotal to success for most business, especially for consumer- facing ones. But, the business of one craft defies this norm to survive and succeed. We are talking about the Patola sarees of Patan. It takes the combined effort of four weavers anywhere between four to six months, sometimes even more, to weave a single saree. This unique weave, usually made from silk, is a double Ikat and combines the techniques of tying, dyeing and weaving.
Many consider Patola as the ‘ultimate manifestation of weaving perfection’ because the displacement of even one thread can resulted in a deformed pattern. Also, the dyeing and the weaving process is extremely complicated, requiring mathematical precision coupled with a vivid imagination. The double Ikat weave means once the saree or fabric is woven, you cannot differentiate between the sides – the colour and the intensity, the feel and the look, are the same on both sides.
“Patola weaving requires a lot of mental calculations, patience, undivided attention and dexterity of the hand. A computerised machine or powerloom cannot be of much help here,”
says Rohit bhai Salvi, a master craftsman, and a member of one of the three surviving families who are practising the Patola weave.
Rohit bhai belongs to the 16th generation of a family that has been pursuing this weaving art form.
A touch of history and geography
The fame, charm, and the popularity of the Patola sarees have been woven by centuries of rich history. From a mention in the Kalpsutra, a 2000-year-old Jain holy book, to carvings in the Ajanta caves, and numerous folk tales in different languages – from Gujarati to Telugu, the Patola sarees make for a fascinating subject. In fact, it took 34 years of constant research for two Swiss writers, Alfred Buhler and Eberhard Fischer, to pen a book The Patola of Gujarat. The book was published in 1979.
The art of Ikat which is integral to Patola has been popular in many countries across the world, especially in South East Asia and Central Asia. Thus there have been many variations in the technique of Ikat, but Patola is counted among the most exquisite.
Ikat has been considered auspicious in many cultures across the world. And thus Patola as well. In fact, the wealthy and aristocrats wore Patola attire while offering prayers, and during special occasions such as festivities and marriages. While today the Patola sarees is synonymous with Patan, even earning it the geographical indication (GI) tag, the craftsmen were originally from Maharashtra. Some say the Patola weavers were part of the spoils of a war which King Kumarapal of the Solanki dynasty won over the ruler of Jalan in Southern Maharashtra in 11th century, some say they were invited by King Kumarapal who was known to have a deep interest in Patola.